After leaving the fens region I had another stop on my holiday to make.
Travelling from flat Fenland to the Suffolk/Essex borders was an interesting experience. First of all I really enjoyed the drive, even though I was constantly getting lost or being redirected due to road closures. It almost felt like the fens weren't going to let me go for a while there. Secondly I chose to drive via Theford Forest and after days of huge skies, it was a revelation to be amongst trees again.
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| Dedham Vale nr East Bergholt |
It was really nice to see trees and hills again, apparently I had been unknowingly missing them. Though I would soon enough change my mind. After quite an extensive drive I arrived at my second home away from home, which would be mine for two nights. A Travellodge on the A12.
I had initially decided to stay in a Travellodge for this part of my trip for two reasons:
1. It was really, really near where I was going to the next day.
2. Having never stayed in a B&B before and yet knowing how many horror stories there are out there I wanted somewhere where experience told me I could be sure of a clean room, clean sheets and a decent shower.
1. It was really, really near where I was going to the next day.
2. Having never stayed in a B&B before and yet knowing how many horror stories there are out there I wanted somewhere where experience told me I could be sure of a clean room, clean sheets and a decent shower.
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| Public footpaths East Bergholt |
It was very convenient, only 5 miles from my location for the next day. However, it was also on the A12, which I had somehow forgotten was a busy road. All in all it wasn't nearly as nice as the other Travellodges I had stayed in and not as nice as where I had just come from. But enough of a grump, back to the real story.
After a passable night's sleep I went down to start my Constable adventure. I had grand plans for the day, wanting to try to spy out as many of Constable's views that became paintings as I could, hopefully with an intention to paint them myself. I certainly wanted to get a photograph of the Haywain location as well as take in one of the walks on the map.
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| Row boats on the River Stour, Dedham |
Deciding to start in East Bergholt I had a mooch around the town and started on one of the walks from my map, one that covered as many of the painting views that I could. It was a pleasant walk, but far longer and intense than I was expecting. I got mildly lost a few times, which is often fun but by about the halfway point I was very tired and quite footsore. Unfortunately it was a circular all or nothing type of walk so I had to keep going. Right at the end of the walk, apparently within spitting distance of the end, I seemed to get very lost, which was quite scary as I'd been going for about 4 hours at this point and really needed food and a sit down. I'd almost gone very wrong a few times before then, but somehow had made the right call, this time I didn't and ended up on footpaths my map didn't know existed. Happily after a lot of reading and a lot of guessing I ended up back at the car.
Many of the painting views were possible to work out where they were but impossible to get to, due to land having become private over the intervening years or time encouraging the growth of trees and bushes. But I found and photographed a few views on my walk and saw many great modern views.
Many of the painting views were possible to work out where they were but impossible to get to, due to land having become private over the intervening years or time encouraging the growth of trees and bushes. But I found and photographed a few views on my walk and saw many great modern views.
After the immense walk (which I had never expected to take that long) and fuelled by a jam doughnut I still had the main focus of the day to do. Slightly regretting that I had not done it in the morning as the sunshine of the morning had become a cloudy and cold afternoon, I headed to Flatford mill.
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| Footpath through grounds of Langham Hall |
It was really pretty around there, it was just a shame that I was too tired and grumpy not to appreciate it more. I did get some good images, especially as this place seems to have changed little since Constable's day. Boat-building near Flatford Mill was easy to spot, even if the dock was no longer dry.
On one hand it was a good job that I was so grumpy, to top everything off the spot where Constable painted the Haywain is behind a big “Private” sign. The buildings belong to the National Trust and the Field Studies Council and are used for residential scientific study. Indeed while I was there there were many students doing research by the pond. Needless to say I ignored the sign and took the photo anyway, which I hope most people do as it seems ridiculous to have the the most famous landmark in that area behind a private sign.
On one hand it was a good job that I was so grumpy, to top everything off the spot where Constable painted the Haywain is behind a big “Private” sign. The buildings belong to the National Trust and the Field Studies Council and are used for residential scientific study. Indeed while I was there there were many students doing research by the pond. Needless to say I ignored the sign and took the photo anyway, which I hope most people do as it seems ridiculous to have the the most famous landmark in that area behind a private sign.
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| Flatford Mill |
My day complete I went back to the Travellodge and then headed home the next day.
